Ahead of her first solo presentation at Australian Fashion Week, Australian designer Courtney Zheng is reflecting on instinct, craftsmanship and the evolving language of modern dressing.
Known for her fluid silhouettes, refined tailoring and intuitive approach to design, Zheng has quietly built a distinctive aesthetic that balances timelessness with experimentation.
Working between Australia and her atelier in Guangzhou – alongside a small team, some of whom have worked with her family for more than three decades – Zheng’s collections are rooted in technical precision, emotional storytelling and a deep understanding of construction. Her brand spans ready-to-wear, made-to-order pieces, accessories and objects, all underpinned by an appreciation for luxurious fabrication and thoughtful design.
We spoke with Courtney ahead of AFW 2026 about creativity, confidence and the balance between art and wearability.
This will be your first solo show at Australian Fashion Week – how are you approaching that moment personally? Does it feel grounding, surreal, or somewhere in between?
Every day for the past few weeks has been a grind. Working out of my atelier in Guangzhou with my team over there is always grounding. We’re still a very small team, some have been with my family for over 35 years.
Your work is so fluid and instinctive – do you design more from a place of feeling or structure, and has that balance changed over time?
Usually there’s a feeling or character I’m trying to embody. As a ready to wear designer, there’s always a framework that needs to be followed. Because I grew up around manufacturing, the technical aspect has always felt very natural to me. Over time, I’ve been allowing myself to explore more freely.
You blur the lines between classic and avant-garde – what currently excites you more: refining something timeless, or pushing into the unexpected?
The balance between art and wearability is what interests me. While it’s fun creating conceptual pieces, we are ultimately running a business and supporting a team.
If you had to predict one subtle shift in how people will be dressing over the next year, what would it be?
I’ve never really been trend-driven. I like keeping up with micro-trends on Instagram though, and have endless folders of saved references. I’m at a stage in my life where I’m embracing my eccentricities. Confidence is probably the most important thing people can wear.
Your pieces feel very considered but never overworked – how do you know when to stop?
I have a clear instinct for what feels right visually, perhaps because I was classically trained in art from a young age. The response is immediate when I see something. I know instantly what needs to be changed for it to look right. That clarity is something that has come from years of honing my technical skills and creating my visual language.
If your brand had a personality at a party, what kind of presence would it have – and would it stay late or leave early?
It would definitely arrive late and be something of a chameleon. Well spoken and articulate when required, and completely unhinged otherwise. It would move easily between different worlds and stay until the lights turn on.
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courtneyzheng.com
