Ahead of Australian Fashion Week, Karla Špetić reflects on the evolution of her eponymous label and the philosophy that continues to shape her work.
Born in Dubrovnik and based in Australia since 1993, Špetić has built a reputation for her distinctive design language – one grounded in precision, intuition, and an ever-deepening exploration of womanhood. Her collections speak in subtlety rather than spectacle, offering a refined, introspective perspective on strength and femininity. Here, she shares insights on creative growth, inner discipline, and the mood behind her upcoming show.
Looking back to when you first started your label in 2008, what advice would you give that version of yourself now?
I would tell her to trust her instinct earlier and not overthink things. When I started, I was constantly questioning whether something was enough or too much, rather than allowing the work to evolve naturally. Over time, I’ve learnt that the strongest ideas are often the quietest ones, and that consistency and patience matter far more than chasing moments.
Your work explores womanhood as something powerful, mystical, and ever-evolving – how has your interpretation of that idea shifted in your most recent collection?
This season feels more grounded and considered. The idea of womanhood hasn’t changed for me, but the way I express it has become more restrained. There’s less reliance on obvious statements and more focus on subtle shifts in silhouette, layering and texture. It’s about strength that isn’t loud, and femininity that reveals itself gradually rather than all at once.
If your next collection were a film, what would its title be – and who would you cast as the lead woman?
The title would be COMPOSE.
The lead woman wouldn’t be defined by a specific person, but rather a feeling, someone calm, self-assured and evolving. She doesn’t need to perform or prove anything. There’s a quiet confidence to her, and a sense that she’s fully in control of how she presents herself.
Outside of fashion, what’s something – an object, place, or ritual – that consistently inspires you but might surprise people?
Yoga has become a big part of my routine, and something I’ve really gone deeper into over time. There’s a constant sense of discovery in it, both physically and mentally, which I find very grounding. Breathwork has also been incredibly powerful in creating space and clarity.
Music also plays a big role for me, particularly more minimal or ambient compositions. It’s less about melody and more about atmosphere and rhythm, which is very similar to how I approach building a collection.
You’ve spoken about creating from within rather than seeking external validation – what does that look like practically in your studio, especially in the lead-up to a major moment like Fashion Week?
In the lead-up to Fashion Week, there’s naturally a lot of pressure, and it’s easy to become distracted by everything happening around you. For me, it’s about staying focused on the work itself and protecting that space in the studio so the collection can develop clearly.
I think external validation is always something creatives have to keep in check. You’re aware that people will respond to the work, and of course, you want it to resonate both creatively and commercially, but it’s a fine balance. Ultimately, I try to stay connected to what feels true to the brand and let that guide the decisions rather than overthinking how it will be received.
AFW is switching things up this year with a new venue – are you excited for the change of scenery, and does showing by the harbour inspire a different kind of mood?
I’ve always been drawn to showing off-site, as it allows for a greater sense of creative freedom and control over the environment. This season, the space feels very intentional. It has a strong sense of light and structure, which aligns closely with the collection and creates a more considered and immersive setting for the show.
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We’ll be attending Karla Špetić’s show at Australian Fashion Week, capturing the collection as it comes to life on the runway. Follow along for live updates, behind-the-scenes moments, and our full coverage at @fashionz.co.nz.
