Āhua continues to carve out a distinct space within Aotearoa’s fashion landscape – one that champions creative freedom, emerging voices and thoughtful design.
This season, a group of designers from across the spectrum of established and emerging talent will present collections shaped by personal inspiration, cultural storytelling and evolving creative practices.
Ahead of the runway, we asked six designers showing this season about the ideas behind their collections, what showing at Āhua means to them, and what they hope audiences will carry with them once the final look leaves the runway.
What was the starting point for the collection you’re presenting at Āhua this season, and how did that initial idea evolve into the final pieces we’ll see on the runway?
Our runway collection stems from the works of Johannes Vermeer, whose paintings explore texture, depth and light, and were created using natural pigments.
The starting point was actually a piece of fabric printed with Girl with a Pearl Earring that my mum bought me while travelling through Europe when I was in my early twenties. I’ve held onto it for years, and it became the spark for this collection.
The garments mimic the mood of a Vermeer painting, layering rich textures, deep blacks and small but striking pops of colour. At the same time, the collection is designed as an extension of the existing Oosterom wardrobe. Every piece is thoughtfully created so it can be styled in multiple ways and integrated with pieces people already own.
Āhua has built a reputation for championing emerging voices and creative freedom. How does showing here influence the way you approach a collection or runway presentation?
Showing at Āhua has allowed me to step a little further into my creative world than I normally would. For the runway I’ve created several one-of-one pieces especially for the show. These freshly released pieces will be available to purchase from The Shelter for the week following the show giving our customers the chance to experience the range in person.
The runway styling still feels very true to the Oosterom aesthetic, but we’ve pushed things a bit further – exaggerated accents, richer textures, and luxurious fabrics that people haven’t seen from the brand before. We’ve developed a really rich aesthetic that celebrates female-led brands here in Tāmaki Makaurau.
When the final look leaves the runway, what do you hope the audience takes away from your collection – whether it’s a feeling, message, or moment?
I’d love people to feel like they want to see it all again.
Each garment has been constructed very intentionally, with subtle details that you might not notice at first glance. There are little hidden elements throughout the collection that hopefully create a sense of discovery.
At its heart, the message is about the importance of craft in a mass-produced world. It’s also a reminder that here in New Zealand we can create beautiful, thoughtful clothing that you wouldn’t find anywhere else.
What was the starting point for the collection you’re presenting at Āhua this season, and how did that initial idea evolve into the final pieces we’ll see on the runway?
The concept for this collection had been developing for some time, but I was only recently able to fully realise it as a cohesive body of work. I’ve always been fascinated by the non-verbal conversation that clothing creates. In many ways, I compare it to observing art: interpretation is often out of your control, yet how you choose to dress influences that conversation.
From that starting point, I developed a ready-to-wear collection that explores subtle deconstruction and soft tailoring. The garments draw from workwear references, where structure and fluidity coexist, allowing the wearer to move between strength and ease while shaping their own narrative through the pieces. For me, the collection also continues my exploration of silhouette and construction, which is becoming an important part of the language of the brand.
Āhua has built a reputation for championing emerging voices and creative freedom. How does showing here influence the way you approach a collection or runway presentation?
Showing at Āhua gives designers the opportunity to present their work in a way that feels authentic to their practice. I really value being part of any space that celebrates the craft and art form of fashion while also uplifting the community.
This year it’s also exciting to see The Shelter team involved, giving emerging designers a platform to showcase their work within a high-end retail space. They also bring valuable technical knowledge about the business side of fashion.
When the final look leaves the runway, what do you hope the audience takes away from your collection – whether it’s a feeling, message, or moment?
I hope people leave with a sense of curiosity and reflection. For me, the collection is about the quiet dialogue between the wearer and the observer – the subtle tension between control and interpretation.
If the audience walks away feeling something, even if they can’t immediately define it, then the garments have done their job. Clothing can speak before a word is said, and I’m interested in the conversations that happen in that moment.
What was the starting point for the collection you’re presenting at Āhua this season, and how did that initial idea evolve into the final pieces we’ll see on the runway?
Hā ki roto, Hā ki waho, began as an exploration of breath, balance, and self-discovery, deeply inspired by the holistic wellbeing framework. Through fashion that moves beyond clothing to become a medium for personal empowerment and identity.
The final pieces you’ll see on the runway are designed to express stages of self-discovery, using ethically sourced fabrics and versatile silhouettes that celebrate strength and inclusivity with a node to traditional kākahu and taonga. This collection is not aesthetics but a story of whakapapa, connection to whenua.
Āhua has built a reputation for championing emerging voices and creative freedom. How does showing here influence the way you approach a collection or runway presentation?
Showing at Āhua this season is an amazing opportunity because it aligns perfectly with the label’s ethos of manaakitanga, storytelling and creative freedom.
It encourages me to push boundaries and present fashion as an experience rather than just another runway, inviting the audience to engage emotionally and intellectually with the collection.
When the final look leaves the runway, what do you hope the audience takes away from your collection – whether it’s a feeling, message, or moment?
When the final look leaves the runway, I want the audience to carry with them a sense of depth and connection. Beyond appreciating the craftsmanship and locally made kākahu, I want them to experience the collection as a living story of self-discovery, balance, and belonging.
Each piece is truly a taonga, a treasure that invites wearers to honour whakapapa and embrace individuality.
What was the starting point for the collection you’re presenting at Āhua this season, and how did that initial idea evolve into the final pieces we’ll see on the runway?
For our first Āhua show, I’m very excited to show both our newly released collection “Fenella”, and a preview of our winter season to come.
From a period of my life like no other, my current collection bridges the two months prior and after the birth of my first child, Fenella. It is a time capsule of thoughts and emotions from both sides of this brave new world.
I was seeking clarity, serenity, ease, quiet and comfort. It’s a minimalist collection that offers a softer perspective on our signature silhouettes.
As we step into our new collection the clothing continues to draw parallels from my new life with Fenella, but the palette deepens and shadows take hold. The world is a strange and spellbound place in the middle of the night. Magnified forms, unravelled lines, crumpled textures and surrealist prints unfold.
Āhua has built a reputation for championing emerging voices and creative freedom. How does showing here influence the way you approach a collection or runway presentation?
Āhua has a really different feeling to everything I’ve done. It’s run by such a kind and caring team with new eyes and excitement for our industry — it’s so refreshing.
Our models are a lot more varied as Āhua has an open casting call. It’s really cool to have a mix of signed models and street casting. It’s definitely pushed me to approach my show in a looser manner to the typical format of a walk up and down the runway.
When the final look leaves the runway, what do you hope the audience takes away from your collection – whether it’s a feeling, message, or moment?
At this point in my chaotic life I hope they see a finished collection! And leave with their minds curiously piqued to this eerie but ethereal show.
As a relatively new voice in Aotearoa fashion, what does presenting a collection at Āhua mean for you at this stage in your career?
Presenting a collection at Āhua at this stage is an amazing opportunity to showcase work with a relatively low barrier to entry. It allows for a great level of creative control and gives designers the chance to learn skills that are invaluable moving forward, especially when it comes to presenting a body of work publicly.
The team behind it is amazing, and it’s really beautiful to have a sense of community and so much support around these kinds of events.
Starting a fashion label comes with plenty of challenges – what has been the biggest learning curve for you so far, and how has it shaped the way you design?
There have been so many challenges. Financially it has been very difficult. Once you start factoring in the time that goes into a garment from conception to delivery it becomes quite intense to navigate.
Balancing commercial viability while maintaining a researched approach and still having creative freedom has been a constant learning process.
Looking ahead, what do you hope this moment – showing at Āhua – will open the door to for you and your brand?
This collection has already opened a lot of doors. I hope it allows me to continue creating garments that people resonate with, and that it helps justify producing collections at this scale.
For me it’s really about keeping the momentum going and continuing to develop the brand in a way that feels meaningful.
As a relatively new voice in Aotearoa fashion, what does presenting a collection at Āhua mean for you at this stage in your career?
Having the opportunity to pour my energy into such a vibrant, creative community has been an incredible experience. This is my third show with Āhua, and across those shows, I can already see the growth in the quality and direction of my work.
As a 20-year-old designer nearing the end of my university degree, the chance to build a professional portfolio and form industry connections is one I am extremely grateful for.
Starting a fashion label comes with plenty of challenges – what has been the biggest learning curve for you so far, and how has it shaped the way you design?
My collections are made entirely by hand without outsourcing, so the biggest learning curve has been managing the intensity of producing everything myself.
The all-consuming nature of these projects can challenge the balance with other areas of my life, but it’s something I’ve become much better at managing.
Looking ahead, what do you hope this moment – showing at Āhua – will open the door to for you and your brand?
This upcoming collection is the body of work I am the most proud of yet, so I hope that people will connect with it as I have.
Seeing the work reach an audience beyond the runway is exciting, and it’s something I would love to continue pursuing once I graduate in November.
To view the full shoot – including the editorial imagery and fashion credits – CLICK HERE
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